Hand and Power Tools - Complete Interactive Lesson
Part 1: Shop Information on the ASVAB
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Part 1 of 7 — Shop Information on the ASVAB
What the Shop Information subtest is
Shop Information (SI) checks whether you know tools, shop terms and shop practices: which tool does which job, how a tool is used safely and correctly, and what common shop materials and fasteners are for. You do not need to be a carpenter or a welder. Most questions reward knowing the job each tool was built for.
| CAT-ASVAB (MEPS) | |
|---|---|
| Place in the test | 8th of 10 subtests (right after Auto Information) |
| Scored questions | |
| Time limit | minutes |
| Time per question | about seconds |
On the paper version of the test (a few MET sites) and on the high-school CEP paper test, Auto and Shop are combined into one Auto & Shop (AS) subtest of questions. Same content, one section.
Why SI matters if it is not in the AFQT
Your AFQT (the enlistment score) uses only Arithmetic Reasoning, Math Knowledge, Word Knowledge and Paragraph Comprehension. SI matters for job qualification. Your Auto and Shop results are combined into the AS score, and AS shows up in many mechanical line scores:
- Air Force M (Mechanical)
- Marine Corps MM (Mechanical Maintenance)
- Navy MEC and Navy ENG
- Army MM (Mechanical Maintenance) is a weighted blend driven mostly by AS, MC and EI
If you want a job turning wrenches, fixing aircraft, running engines or building things, SI points are worth chasing. Cutoffs vary by job and change often, so ask your recruiter about the jobs you want.
Think in tool families
The fastest way to answer a tool question in seconds is to ask: what job is being done? Every hand tool belongs to a family named for its job.
| Job | Family | Examples |
|---|---|---|
| Hit something | Striking | claw hammer, ball-peen hammer, sledge, mallet |
| Turn a fastener | Turning | screwdrivers, wrenches, sockets, hex keys |
| Remove material | Cutting and shaping | saws, chisels, files, planes, snips |
| Hold something | Gripping and clamping | pliers, C-clamps, bar clamps, vises |
| Make a hole | Boring (drilling) | drills and bits, brace and bit, punches |
| Smooth a surface | Finishing | sandpaper, sanding block, sanders, rasps |
| Mark and check | Measuring and layout | tape measure, squares, levels, calipers |
Power tools do the same jobs faster: a circular saw cuts like a handsaw, a drill/driver bores holes and turns screws, a belt sander finishes like sandpaper.
What the questions look like
- Picture items: a drawing of a tool, and you name it or name its use.
- Best tool for the job: "Which saw cuts curves in thin wood?"
- Correct use: which way hacksaw teeth point, which hammer drives nails, how to read a tape.
- Safety and practice: why you unplug a saw before changing a blade.
The plan for this lesson
| Part | Skill |
|---|---|
| 2 | Striking and turning tools |
| 3 | Cutting tools: saws, chisels, files and planes |
| 4 | Gripping, clamping, drilling and finishing tools |
| 5 | Measuring, layout and shop safety |
| 6 | Test strategy and traps |
| 7 | Mastery set |
Materials, fasteners, wood, metal, welding and soldering get their own lesson, Materials, Fasteners and Shop Processes.
Warm-up 1. Use the figure. 🎯
Warm-up 2 and 3. No pictures this time. 🎯
Key Takeaways — Part 1
- SI on the CAT-ASVAB: 10 questions in 6 minutes, about 36 seconds each
- On paper tests, Auto and Shop are one combined AS section
- SI is not in the AFQT, but the AS score feeds mechanical line scores (Air Force M, Marine MM, Navy MEC and ENG, Army MM)
- Sort every tool by its job: striking, turning, cutting, gripping, boring, finishing, measuring
Up Next: Part 2 — striking and turning tools: hammers, screwdrivers and wrenches.
Part 2: Striking and Turning Tools
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Part 2 of 7 — Striking and Turning Tools
Hammers: match the hammer to what you are hitting
Every hammer has a face (the striking end) and something on the other end that tells you its job.
| Hammer | What the other end looks like | Main job |
|---|---|---|
| Claw hammer | curved, split claw | drive and pull nails in wood |
| Framing (rip-claw) hammer | straighter claw, heavier head | rough framing, prying boards apart |
| Ball-peen hammer | rounded ball (the "peen") | metalwork: shaping rivets, striking punches and cold chisels |
| Sledgehammer | two flat faces, long handle | heavy blows with two hands: stakes, demolition, breaking concrete |
| Mallet | wide head of rubber, wood or plastic | tap wood joints, strike wood-handled chisels, no dents |
| Dead-blow hammer | head filled with loose shot | solid blow with almost no bounce |
Worked example. A soldier is assembling a wooden frame with snug joints and does not want to dent the wood. The best choice is a mallet: its soft head spreads the blow.
Worked example. A metal-shop student needs to round over the end of a rivet. The rounded end of a ball-peen hammer is made for that.
Safety: Hammer faces are hardened steel. Never strike one hammer against another hammer or a hardened surface: chips of steel can fly off like shrapnel.
Name the hammer. Use the figure. 🎯
Screwdrivers: match the tip to the recess
| Driver | Tip / recess shape | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Slotted (flat-blade) | one straight slot | oldest type; slips out easily |
| Phillips | cross (plus sign) | designed to slip out ("cam out") before over-tightening |
| Torx | six-pointed star | grips well, common on vehicles and electronics |
| Square (Robertson) | square hole | common in decks and cabinets |
| Hex key (Allen wrench) | six-sided hole | L-shaped bar, turns set screws and socket-head screws |
| Offset screwdriver | Z- or L-shaped body | reaches screws where a straight handle cannot fit |
Two rules the test likes:
- Use the right size tip. A tip that is too small strips the screw head; too big and it will not seat.
- A screwdriver is not a chisel or a pry bar. Hammering or prying on it bends the shank and chips the tip.
Read the screw heads. Use the figure. 🎯
Wrenches: grip the flats of a nut or bolt head
| Wrench | How it grips | When to use it |
|---|---|---|
| Open-end | U-shaped jaws touch two flats | slides on from the side where a ring cannot reach; can slip and round a nut |
| Box-end | closed ring (6 or 12 points) surrounds the nut | grips all six sides, least likely to slip; good for breaking a tight nut loose |
| Combination | open end on one side, box end on the other, same size | the everyday wrench in a toolbox |
| Adjustable (crescent) | one fixed jaw, one movable jaw set by a thumbscrew | odd sizes; snug the jaws tight and keep the strain on the fixed jaw |
| Socket and ratchet | socket surrounds the nut; ratchet clicks back without lifting off | fast work, deep or recessed nuts, with extensions |
| Torque wrench | socket drive with a scale or click setting | tightening to an exact specification |
| Pipe wrench | toothed jaws that bite harder as you pull | round pipe and fittings, not finished nuts (the teeth chew them up) |
| Nut driver | a socket on a screwdriver handle | small nuts and hex-head screws |
Worked example. A nut on a truck is rusted tight and its corners are already slightly rounded. A box-end wrench (or a six-point socket) is the best first try: it touches all six sides, so it is least likely to slip and round the nut further.
Worked example. A plumber needs to turn a length of threaded steel pipe. That round surface gives a regular wrench nothing to grip, so the job calls for a pipe wrench.
Good practice: Pull a wrench toward you instead of pushing it. If it slips, you lose balance less and keep your knuckles off the metal.
Two wrench ends. Use the figure. 🎯
Pick the tool for each job. 🔽
Correct use. 🎯
Key Takeaways — Part 2
- Claw = nails; ball-peen = metalwork and rivets; sledge = heavy blows; mallet = no dents
- Match the screwdriver to the recess: slotted, Phillips (cross), Torx (star), square, hex key
- Box-end grips all six sides; open-end slides on from the side; combination = one of each, same size
- Torque wrench = exact tightness; pipe wrench = round pipe, not nuts; ratchet = speed
- Never strike hardened steel on hardened steel; pull wrenches toward you
Up Next: Part 3 — cutting tools: which saw, chisel, file or plane fits the job.
Part 3: Cutting Tools: Saws, Chisels, Files and Planes
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Part 3 of 7 — Cutting Tools: Saws, Chisels, Files and Planes
Handsaws: which way is the grain, and what shape is the cut?
Wood has a grain: the long fibers that run the length of a board. Cutting across the grain and cutting along it are different jobs, so they get different saws.
| Saw | Teeth / build | Job |
|---|---|---|
| Crosscut saw | many small teeth sharpened like little knives | cuts across the grain (shortening a board) |
| Rip saw | fewer, larger teeth shaped like little chisels | cuts with (along) the grain (making a board narrower) |
| Back saw | stiff metal spine along the top, fine teeth | straight, accurate cuts; used with a miter box for angles and joints |
| Coping saw | very thin blade in a deep U-shaped frame | curves and scrollwork in thin wood and trim |
| Keyhole (compass) saw | narrow, pointed blade, no frame | starts in a drilled hole to cut an opening in the middle of a panel |
| Hacksaw | fine-tooth blade in a frame | cuts metal: bolts, pipe, rod |
Memory hook: you rip a sheet of paper the long way. The rip saw cuts the long way, with the grain.
Using a hacksaw
- The blade's teeth point away from the handle, so the saw cuts on the push stroke. Ease up on the return.
- Use a finer blade (more teeth per inch) for thin metal and tubing, so at least two or three teeth touch the metal at once and the teeth do not snag.
Worked example. You must shorten a by cutting it across its width. The cut runs across the grain, so a crosscut saw is correct. If you were cutting a board lengthwise into two narrower strips, you would rip it.
Four saws. Use the figure. 🎯
Grain and teeth. 🎯
Chisels, files, rasps, snips and planes
| Tool | What it cuts | Key facts |
|---|---|---|
| Wood chisel | wood: cleaning out joints, mortises, hinge recesses | beveled edge; struck with a mallet; cut with the grain; push away from your body |
| Cold chisel | metal: cutting off rivet heads, rusted bolts, sheet stock | hardened steel; struck with a ball-peen hammer; grind off a mushroomed head |
| File | metal (and smoothing wood) | rows of fine teeth; cuts on the push stroke; always fit a handle over the pointed tang; clean with a file card |
| Rasp | wood (shaping) | separate, raised, pointed teeth; much coarser than a file |
| Tin snips | thin sheet metal | look like heavy scissors |
| Utility knife | drywall, cardboard, scoring | replaceable blade; cut away from your body |
| Hand plane | shaves thin strips off wood | trims a board to size or smooths it; plane with the grain |
Worked example. A rusted rivet head must be cut off a steel trailer. A wood chisel would chip and dull. The right tools are a cold chisel driven by a ball-peen hammer.
Worked example. A door sticks because it is a little too wide along one long edge. You would shave that edge with a hand plane, working with the grain.
Why a handle on a file matters: the tang is pointed. Without a handle, a slip can drive it into your palm.
Chisels, files and planes. 🎯
Power saws: same jobs, faster
| Power saw | Blade | Best for |
|---|---|---|
| Circular saw | round blade, handheld | straight cuts in lumber and plywood on the job site |
| Table saw | round blade sticking up through a table, with a rip fence | accurate rip cuts along long boards and sheets |
| Miter saw (chop saw) | round blade that swings down, pivots for angles | crosscuts and angle cuts on trim and framing |
| Jigsaw (saber saw) | short blade that moves up and down | curves and cutouts (a sink hole in a countertop) |
| Reciprocating saw | long blade that pushes and pulls | demolition and rough cuts, even through nails and pipe |
| Band saw | continuous loop blade | curves in thick stock on a bench |
Matching tip: a power saw usually copies a hand saw. Circular, table and miter saws make straight cuts like a crosscut or rip saw. A jigsaw and a band saw cut curves like a coping saw.
Kickback: a spinning blade can grab the wood and throw it back at you. Keep the blade guard working, use the rip fence and a push stick on a table saw, and never stand directly behind the blade.
Choose the power saw. 🔽
Key Takeaways — Part 3
- Crosscut = across the grain (knife teeth); rip = with the grain (chisel teeth)
- Coping saw = curves in thin wood; keyhole saw = start in a drilled hole; back saw + miter box = accurate angles; hacksaw = metal
- Hacksaw teeth point away from the handle and cut on the push
- Cold chisel = metal (with a ball-peen hammer); wood chisel = wood (with a mallet)
- Rasp = coarse wood shaping; file = fine teeth, push stroke, always with a handle
- Power saws copy hand saws: table saw rips, miter saw angles, jigsaw curves, reciprocating saw demolition
Up Next: Part 4 — gripping, clamping, drilling and finishing tools.
Part 4: Gripping, Clamping, Drilling and Finishing Tools
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Part 4 of 7 — Gripping, Clamping, Drilling and Finishing Tools
Pliers: grip, bend and cut
| Pliers | Look for | Job |
|---|---|---|
| Slip-joint | pivot with two positions | everyday gripping of small objects |
| Tongue-and-groove (channel-type) | long handles, jaws that shift along grooves | big nuts, pipe, odd shapes |
| Needle-nose | long, thin, pointed jaws | small parts, bending wire loops, tight spaces |
| Locking | screw in one handle, release lever | clamp on and stay locked, like a portable clamp or vise |
| Diagonal cutters (side cutters) | angled cutting edges, no flat jaws | snipping wire close to a surface |
| Lineman's | heavy square jaws with a cutter | cutting and twisting heavy electrical wire |
Not a wrench: pliers squeeze a nut on its corners and round them off. Use a wrench on nuts and bolts whenever one fits.
Clamps and vises: hold the work so both hands are free
| Holder | Job |
|---|---|
| C-clamp | C-shaped frame; a screw presses a swivel pad toward the fixed end. Holds pieces together or to a bench |
| Bar clamp / pipe clamp | long reach for gluing up wide panels and frames |
| Spring clamp | quick, light hold, squeezed open by hand |
| Bench vise | bolted to the bench; holds work while you saw, file or drill. Soft jaw covers protect finished surfaces |
Worked example. Two boards have just been glued face to face. To hold them tight while the glue dries, use C-clamps (or bar clamps for wide panels), with scrap pads so the clamp does not dent the wood.
Identify the tool. Use the figure. 🎯
Pliers and clamps. 🎯
Drilling (boring) tools
| Tool or bit | Looks like | Job |
|---|---|---|
| Twist bit | rod with spiral grooves, pointed tip | general holes in metal, wood and plastic |
| Spade bit | flat paddle with a center spur | fast, rough holes in wood |
| Forstner bit | short cylinder with a center point | clean, flat-bottomed holes in wood |
| Hole saw | cup with saw teeth around the rim, pilot bit in the center | large round holes, such as for a door lock |
| Countersink | short cone | cone-shaped recess so a flat-head screw sits flush |
| Masonry bit | carbide tip | concrete and brick (often with a hammer drill) |
| Brace and bit | crank-shaped hand tool with an auger bit | boring holes in wood by hand |
Two small tools that come before or after a drill:
- Center punch: struck with a hammer to make a small dimple in metal, so the drill bit starts exactly there and does not "walk."
- Nail set: a blunt punch that sinks the head of a finishing nail just below the wood surface so the hole can be filled.
Good drilling practice: clamp the work (never hold small parts by hand), use slower speeds for large bits and for metal, and drill a pilot hole before driving a big screw so the wood does not split.
Worked example. You will drill a hole in a steel bracket. First mark the spot with a center punch, clamp the bracket, then drill with a twist bit at a slow speed.
Four bits. Use the figure. 🎯
Punches and drilling practice. 🎯
Finishing tools: smooth, shape and clean
| Tool | Job |
|---|---|
| Sanding block | holds sandpaper flat so you sand an even surface instead of rounding it |
| Belt sander | fast removal of wood on large flat surfaces |
| Orbital (finishing) sander | fine smoothing before paint or varnish |
| Router | spinning bit that shapes edges (rounded, beveled) and cuts grooves such as dadoes |
| Bench grinder | spinning abrasive wheels to sharpen and shape metal tools; always use the tool rest and eye protection |
| Wire brush | scrubs off rust, scale and old paint |
Sandpaper grades (grit numbers) and finishes such as stain and varnish are covered in the Materials, Fasteners and Shop Processes lesson.
Worked example. You want the sharp edge of a tabletop rounded over in a smooth, even curve. A router with a round-over bit does that. A belt sander would remove wood fast but unevenly at an edge.
Choose the finishing tool. 🔽
Key Takeaways — Part 4
- Needle-nose = small parts and tight spaces; locking = clamps on and stays; diagonal cutters = snip wire; pliers are not wrenches
- C-clamp = screw-and-pad clamp; bar clamp = wide glue-ups; vise = holds work on the bench
- Hole saw = large round holes; countersink = flush flat-head screws; spade bit = fast rough wood holes; twist bit = general
- Center punch before drilling metal; nail set sinks finishing nails
- Sanding block keeps sanding flat; router shapes edges; bench grinder sharpens metal tools
Up Next: Part 5 — measuring, layout and shop safety, including reading a tape to inch.
Part 5: Measuring, Layout and Shop Safety
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Part 5 of 7 — Measuring, Layout and Shop Safety
Reading a tape measure or rule to inch
Each inch on a shop rule is split into equal spaces. The length of each tick mark tells you which fraction it is:
| Tick length | Marks every | Values |
|---|---|---|
| Longest | inch | |
| Long | inch | |
| Medium | inch | |
| Short | inch | |
| Shortest | inch | the odd sixteenths: |
The counting method (never fails): start at the last whole inch, count the sixteenth spaces to your mark, then reduce the fraction.
Worked example. A mark is sixteenth-spaces past the -inch line. That is inches, which reduces to inches.
Worked example. One mark is at in. and another at in. How far apart are they? Convert to sixteenths: and , so the gap is inch.
Tape tip: the hook on the end of a tape slides in and out by its own thickness, so the reading is correct whether you hook it on an edge or push it against a surface. Do not "fix" a loose hook.
Read the rule. ✍️
The figure shows the first inches of a shop rule marked in sixteenths. Arrow A points to a mark sixteenth-spaces past the -inch line, and arrow B points to the medium tick between and inch.
1) The reading at A, in inches (a mixed number like 1 1/2, or a decimal):
2) The reading at B, in inches (fraction or decimal):
3) The distance from B to A, in inches (fraction or decimal):
Layout tools: square, level and straight
| Tool | What it does |
|---|---|
| Combination square | a blade with a sliding head that reads and ; marks cut lines, checks squareness, measures depth |
| Try square | fixed blade and handle; checks that an edge or corner is square |
| Framing (carpenter's) square | large L-shaped steel square for laying out rafters, stairs and wall framing |
| Level | a bubble vial: centered bubble means level (horizontal) or plumb (vertical), depending on the vial |
| Plumb bob | a pointed weight on a string; gravity makes the string hang exactly vertical |
| Chalk line | a chalk-coated string snapped against a surface to mark a long straight line |
| Marking gauge | scribes a line parallel to the edge of a board |
| Calipers | jaws that measure outside and inside diameters and depths (dial and digital types read to thousandths) |
| Micrometer | a precision screw gauge for very small outside measurements, in thousandths of an inch |
Reading a level: the bubble is lighter than the liquid, so it floats to the high end. If the bubble drifts left, the left end is high.
Worked example. A fence post must stand perfectly vertical. Hold a level against two adjacent sides (or hang a plumb bob beside it) until the post is plumb.
Worked example. A machinist needs the outside diameter of a small shaft to within a thousandth of an inch. The tool is a micrometer (or a dial caliper for slightly less precision). A tape measure is far too coarse.
Read the level. Use the figure. 🎯
Layout and precision tools. 🎯
Shop safety the test expects you to know
| Rule | Why |
|---|---|
| Wear safety glasses (with side shields) whenever you cut, grind, drill or strike | chips and sparks fly in every direction |
| Wear hearing protection around loud power tools | noise damage is permanent |
| Unplug a power tool (or remove its battery) before changing a blade or bit or making adjustments | a bumped switch can start it |
| Remove the chuck key before turning on a drill | it can be thrown out of the chuck |
| Keep guards in place | they cover the blade and reduce kickback injuries |
| Clamp small work instead of holding it | a spinning bit can grab and spin the part |
| No loose clothing, jewelry or dangling sleeves; tie back long hair; no gloves near spinning bits or blades | anything that can catch will be pulled in |
| Keep tools sharp | a dull tool needs more force, so it slips more |
| Cut and push away from your body | if the tool slips, it moves away from you |
| Store oily rags in a closed metal can | they can heat up and catch fire on their own |
Worked example. A student wants to swap a dull blade on a jigsaw. The correct first step is to unplug the saw, not just switch it off. The trigger can be bumped while your fingers are on the blade.
Safety checks. 🎯
Key Takeaways — Part 5
- Rules split each inch into 16: count sixteenth-spaces past the last inch, then reduce
- Combination square ( and ), try square (check a corner), framing square (rafters and stairs)
- The bubble floats to the high end; plumb = vertical; plumb bob finds vertical; chalk line = long straight lines
- Calipers and micrometers measure small parts to thousandths of an inch
- Eye protection, unplug before changes, guards on, clamp the work, nothing loose near spinning parts, keep tools sharp
Up Next: Part 6 — how to work Shop Information questions in about 36 seconds each, and the traps to avoid.
Part 6: Shop Information Test Strategy and Traps
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Part 6 of 7 — Shop Information Test Strategy and Traps
Your clock: about 36 seconds a question
Shop Information on the CAT-ASVAB gives you questions in minutes. That is the tightest clock per question on the whole test, but most SI questions are recognition: you either know the tool or you can reason to it fast.
- Aim to answer a picture or "which tool" question in 10 to 20 seconds. That banks time for the occasional reading-heavy question.
- The timer and the number of questions left show in the lower-right corner of the screen.
- You cannot skip ahead or go back. You must answer each question to move on, so decide and commit.
- Some questions may be unscored tryout items, and you cannot tell which. Treat every question as if it counts.
- If time is running out, keep reading and answering for real. The CAT penalizes a string of wrong answers at the end of a subtest heavily, so random clicking hurts more than it helps.
A three-step routine for "which tool" questions
- Find the verb. Is the job to drive, turn, cut, hold, bore, smooth or measure? That names the family.
- Find the material and shape. Wood or metal? Straight cut or curve? Round pipe or a hex nut? With or across the grain?
- Pick the tool built for it. Several tools could do the job badly. The answer is the one designed for it.
Worked example. "Which tool is best for cutting a curve in a piece of -inch plywood?" Verb: cut. Material and shape: thin wood, curve. Built for it: coping saw (or a jigsaw if power tools are listed). A hacksaw could scratch its way through, but it is designed for metal.
The traps test writers like
| Trap | The fact that beats it |
|---|---|
| Swapping rip and crosscut | rip = with the grain (like ripping paper the long way); crosscut = across |
| Using a wood chisel on metal | metal needs a cold chisel and a ball-peen hammer |
| Mixing up claw and ball-peen hammers | claw = nails; ball-peen = metal, rivets, punches |
| A pipe wrench or pliers on a nut | both chew up the corners; use a box-end, socket or open-end wrench |
| A screwdriver used as a pry bar or chisel | it bends and chips; the "correct practice" answer never abuses a tool |
| Coping versus keyhole saw | coping = curves from an edge; keyhole = start inside a drilled hole |
| Hacksaw direction | teeth point away from the handle; it cuts on the push |
| Reading a level | the bubble moves to the high end |
| File versus rasp | rasp = coarse, wood; file = fine teeth, metal or smoothing |
| "Which is NOT..." questions | read the stem twice; three answers will be true |
Picture questions: look for the one feature that names the tool
- The other end of a hammer head (claw, ball, second face, soft head).
- The frame of a saw (deep U = coping, shallow frame with pistol grip = hacksaw, no frame and pointed = keyhole).
- The jaws of pliers (long and thin, locking screw, cutting edges only).
- The ends of a wrench (U-shaped open end, closed ring, movable jaw, toothed jaws).
Spot the trap. Each question hides one of the traps above. 🎯
Speed drill. Answer each in under 15 seconds. ⏱️
Key Takeaways — Part 6
- SI: 10 questions, 6 minutes, about 36 seconds each. Recognition questions should take 10 to 20 seconds
- Routine: verb (family) → material and shape → the tool designed for it
- Watch the classic swaps: rip/crosscut, cold/wood chisel, claw/ball-peen, coping/keyhole, file/rasp
- "Correct practice" answers never abuse a tool: no pliers on nuts, no screwdriver prying, no pipe wrench on finished nuts
- No going back on the CAT: commit, and keep answering for real if time runs short
Up Next: Part 7 — a mixed mastery set across every tool family.
Part 7: Hand and Power Tools Mastery Set
🔧 Hand and Power Tools
Part 7 of 7 — Hand and Power Tools Mastery Set
This set mixes every tool family the way the real subtest does: some picture questions, some "best tool for the job," some correct-practice and safety questions, and one measuring question.
Pace yourself like test day: about 36 seconds per question. Use the routine from Part 6: verb → material and shape → the tool designed for it.
Question 1. Use the figure. 🎯
Question 2. Read the rule. ✍️
Arrow P points to a mark sixteenth-spaces past . Arrow Q points to a mark sixteenth-spaces past the -inch line.
1) The reading at P, in inches (fraction or decimal):
2) The reading at Q, in inches (a mixed number like 1 1/2, or a decimal):
3) The distance from P to Q, in inches (fraction or decimal):
Question 3. Use the figure. 🎯
Questions 4 to 7. 🎯
Questions 8 to 11. 🎯
Lesson Wrap-Up
You now have the whole tool map the Shop Information subtest draws from:
| Family | Must-know tools |
|---|---|
| Striking | claw, ball-peen, sledge, mallet |
| Turning | slotted, Phillips, Torx, hex key; open-end, box-end, combination, adjustable, socket and ratchet, torque, pipe wrench |
| Cutting | crosscut, rip, back, coping, keyhole, hacksaw; wood and cold chisels; files, rasps, snips, planes; circular, table, miter, jig, reciprocating and band saws |
| Gripping and boring | needle-nose, locking, diagonal cutters; C-clamp, bar clamp, vise; twist, spade, Forstner, hole saw, countersink; center punch, nail set |
| Finishing | sanding block, belt and orbital sanders, router, bench grinder, wire brush |
| Measuring | rule to , combination and try squares, framing square, level, plumb bob, chalk line, calipers, micrometer |
Next steps: take the exit quiz for this topic, then move on to Materials, Fasteners and Shop Processes to finish Shop Information.